Sheet of acrylic large enough for your needs A heat gun, which is an electrical tool that heats and softens a variety of materials Scrap wood Cutting tools, such as a Dremel saw, circular saw, table saw, and/or razor knife[2] X Research source A vise and clamps Chinagraph pencil, also known as a grease pencil, or permanent marker Acrylic glue and an applicator
You may need tools such as a ruler or other measuring stick, a square, a compass, or a protractor to find these dimensions. Once you have calculated your dimensions, mark them up on the acrylic so that you know where to cut. A China graph pencil or permanent marker works well, but the marker will not be able to be removed. If you want any holes in your acrylic enclosure, it is better to drill or cut them into it before bending, as this process is easier while the acrylic is still flat.
This is where you can use the circular or table saw, if you are cutting a jig. A jig is a box or frame meant for holding a material and guiding a machine tool to the material. [5] X Research source The jig will be cut at a particular height and its edge at a particular angle, based on your calculations, so that you bend the acrylic correctly. Make sure you have a spare piece of scrap wood to help you with the heat bending process. You will use it to push on the acrylic while it is heated.
Use the spare piece of flat scrap wood to push the acrylic back and down while you aim the heat gun at the acrylic. Make your pressure on the acrylic as even as possible while you push. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/d/d8/Bend-Acrylic-Step-4Bullet1. jpg/v4-460px-Bend-Acrylic-Step-4Bullet1. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/d/d8/Bend-Acrylic-Step-4Bullet1. jpg/aid4719217-v4-728px-Bend-Acrylic-Step-4Bullet1. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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<br />\n</p></div>"} Move the heat gun slowly side-to-side while you push back and down on the acrylic. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/8/89/Bend-Acrylic-Step-4Bullet2. jpg/v4-460px-Bend-Acrylic-Step-4Bullet2. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/8/89/Bend-Acrylic-Step-4Bullet2. jpg/aid4719217-v4-728px-Bend-Acrylic-Step-4Bullet2. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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<br />\n</p></div>"} Note that the acrylic will likely bend slowly at first. Take your time and be patient, bending the acrylic gently so it doesn’t crack. [7] X Expert Source Abraham SchwartzHandyman Expert Interview. 28 August 2020. If the acrylic is thin enough, you may be able to use a blow dryer if you don’t have a heat gun. [8] X Expert Source Abraham SchwartzHandyman Expert Interview. 28 August 2020.
It will be helpful to allow each bend to completely cool before going on to the next bend so that you do not lose the initial bend.
It is important to trace each side of the bent acrylic. Do not assume that both sides are the exact same shape.
Be very careful while bending the acrylic and cutting your side pieces, as the acrylic glue requires perfect seams in order set correctly. [10] X Research source The acrylic glue requires at least five minutes to set, so it is recommended to clamp the enclosure together to help it set correctly. [11] X Research source
A strip heater, which is a tool that has a heating element along the length of it and rests on which to lay the material you want to heat so that they are not directly on the intense heating element[12] X Research source Sheet of acrylic that is large enough for your needs Chinagraph pencil, also known as a grease pencil, or permanent marker A jig, which is a box or frame meant for holding a material and guiding a machine tool to the material[13] X Research source Scrap wood Cutting tools, such as a Dremel saw, circular saw, table saw, and/or razor knife Clamps Acrylic glue and an applicator
It may be helpful to overestimate your dimensions, since you will be heating and bending the acrylic. Heating may cause a slight change in where the bend lies and how it fits into other pieces.
Make sure that your line exactly follows the shape you desire. If you want a straight line, make sure it is perfectly straight. If you need it to be angled, then make sure the line runs at the correct angle. The line will still appear on the acrylic after it is heated, when you need to bend it. The Chinagraph pencil markings can be removed later. Remember that permanent marker will not come off.
Use the circular or table saw for this process. You may need to use wood glue or nails to assemble your jig into the shape you need, depending on how you plan to bend the acrylic. For example, you might adhere two pieces of scrap wood together at a 90-degree angle along their long sides if you want your acrylic bent in that shape. If you need a more acute or obtuse angle, then you will likely need to cut the edges of your scrap wood at slight angles instead of perfectly straight across. Set the jig aside until you need it. Be sure to leave it close by and easily accessible. Have a piece of scrap wood nearby, as well, for helping to form the shape of the bent acrylic in the jig.
Turn the sheet of acrylic over on the heating element every 30-60 seconds in order to avoid damaging it. Wear gloves as you do this to avoid burning your hands. Only keep the acrylic on the strip heater long enough for it to become flexible, at which point it is ready for you to bend. It may be helpful to clamp the acrylic in place while it is being heated so that only the marked area is heated and the sheet of acrylic does not move. [16] X Research source
Bend the acrylic to match the angle of the jig. Then, set the acrylic into the jig so that it will form to that angle as it cools. Set the flat piece of scrap wood on top of the acrylic to keep it in place in the jig while it cools, so that it forms to the correct angle. You could also use clamps, if you have your jig set up on a table surface with room to apply the clamps. Do not remove the acrylic from the jig until it has cooled, or it might lose its new shape.
Remember to wait until the initial bend in the acrylic has completely cooled before attempting another bend in the same sheet of acrylic. Moving it while it is still warm and flexible will cause it to lose the bend.
Remember to trace both sides of your newly bent acrylic, as they may not be the exact same shape and size. Cut out the side pieces using a Dremel saw or a razor knife. Take care not to crack the acrylic, which may cause you to have to start over. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/e/e5/Bend-Acrylic-Step-15Bullet2. jpg/v4-460px-Bend-Acrylic-Step-15Bullet2. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/e/e5/Bend-Acrylic-Step-15Bullet2. jpg/aid4719217-v4-728px-Bend-Acrylic-Step-15Bullet2. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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<br />\n</p></div>"} Fit the side pieces into the bent acrylic to create your enclosure. Secure the sides with acrylic glue and an applicator, and use clamps to hold them in place to set for several minutes. {“smallUrl”:“https://www. wikihow. com/images/thumb/4/43/Bend-Acrylic-Step-15Bullet3. jpg/v4-460px-Bend-Acrylic-Step-15Bullet3. jpg”,“bigUrl”:"/images/thumb/4/43/Bend-Acrylic-Step-15Bullet3. jpg/aid4719217-v4-728px-Bend-Acrylic-Step-15Bullet3. jpg",“smallWidth”:460,“smallHeight”:345,“bigWidth”:728,“bigHeight”:546,“licensing”:"<div class="mw-parser-output">
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