Building codes often dictate important building conditions, such as where your barn can go, how big it can be, and what kind of plumbing and electrical systems it can have. Depending on where you live, it may also be necessary to obtain a building permit from your local Planning Department before you can begin building. [2] X Research source
Avoid land located at the bottoms of hills or near bodies of water. Sites like these may look attractive, but all it will take is one hard rain to cause flooding or more severe water damage.
If the wind seems to blow equally hard in all four directions, consider placing an entrance on each side of your barn. You can then open and close the different entryways as needed to achieve optimal ventilation.
If you don’t have a silo, tall trees, or other shade-producing structures on your property, simply erect your barn where you think it will be the most stable.
Many power equipment companies rent out excavators, backhoes, and other excavation tools on a daily, weekly, or monthly basis. Run a quick search for your equipment of choice plus the name of your town or city to find a renter in your area. Be sure to save the topsoil you remove. It can come in handy for building up uneven areas or completing future landscaping projects.
For a barn that’s 30 feet (9. 1 m) x 40 feet (12 m), your excavated area would need to be 38–42 feet (12–13 m) x 48–52 feet (15–16 m). If you don’t have enough space to extend your dig site, another option is to build a retaining wall along the back edge of the foundation’s perimeter to stabilize the adjacent soil and halt runoff.
Keep in mind that your footer must meet the minimum depth and width requirements specified in your local building codes. These can vary from place to place, depending on the regional climate. It’s not necessary to dig the foundation for a barn quite as deep as you would for a house or similar structure, since the walls and roof are all that it will be holding up. [9] X Research source
Use a circular saw equipped with a ferrous-metal-cutting blade to trim your rebar to the appropriate size. [11] X Research source
Any type of stone sized #57 or larger will make an ideal substrate choice for structures like barns and large sheds. [13] X Research source To guarantee maximum stability, it’s important that all building sites be backfilled with stone, whether they’re located on a slope or not.
Alternatively, you can stack 8–10 in (20–25 cm) cement blocks in the space between the concrete footer and the top of your substrate and pour the concrete for the slab floor between the uppermost layer of blocks. [15] X Research source Once you’ve finished pouring the concrete for your foundation, allow it to set for another 2-3 days, or until it’s had time to cure completely. Concrete floors are stronger, more durable, and easier to clean and maintain than bare dirt or gravel floors, but they can be hard on your animals’ hooves. Consider covering your barn’s center aisle with rubber pavers or mats, and be sure to put down a bed of gravel, clay, or straw inside your livestock stalls.
The sill plate is the first piece of lumber you’ll put down for your foundation. On most structures, the sill plate consists of a series of boards laid out around the outer edges of the foundation and secured with bolts, masonry nails, and/or steel straps. [17] X Research source For a more rustic look, try framing your barn with rough-cut 4x6 oak posts spaced 8–12 feet (2. 4–3. 7 m) apart on center. Call your local saw mill to ask about having custom posts cut to the exact specifications you need. [18] X Research source
In the past, barns almost always featured gambrel roofs, which consist of four flat planes that come together in a point at the center. If you prefer, you could also go with a simpler style for your barn, such as a gable, skillion, hip, or even a flat roof. [20] X Research source The roof is one of the most important parts of the barn, as it serves to provide shade, deflect precipitation, and keep the interior of the structure covered. If you’re not confident in your ability to build a sturdy, watertight roof yourself, it’s best to hire a contractor to come in and make sure the job gets done right.
Roofing felt acts as a buffer to protect your roof’s sheathing from damage, block out moisture, and insulate against heat and cold. Plan on putting down a layer of roofing felt no matter what roofing materials you ultimately go with. Corrugated metal roof panels can provide a simple and long-lasting option if you have a little more money to spend. They’re easy to install, environmentally-friendly, and capable of withstanding extreme temperatures, sun exposure, and precipitation for up to 70 years![22] X Research source
It may be necessary to trim the final board on each wall to comfortably fit the remaining space. If you prefer the DIY approach, you can also create your own board & batten-style siding by nailing 2x10 boards onto your wall studs with 2x4 boards positioned perpendicularly in-between. [24] X Research source
Barn doors can be quite heavy, and may be too cumbersome to manage by yourself. Ask someone to give you a hand hoisting the doors up onto their tracks once you’re done installing the mounting hardware. [26] X Research source Don’t forget to measure the wall you want to put your door in so you’ll know what size doors to buy and how far they’ll be able to open in either direction. This will be especially important if you’ll be herding large animals through the entrance.
