Severe weathering (SW) bricks can withstand direct contact with the ground and moisture. Use these for foundations, patios, garden walls, and so on. Medium weathering (MW) bricks can withstand freezing temperatures and above ground exterior work (not direct ground contact). No weathering (NW) bricks are for interior work only.
You must add the mortar measurements when planning your wall. The combination measurement of brick and mortar is called the brick’s “nominal” size. [1] X Research source Three rows of bricks stacked on top of each other will be 8" tall. For example, to make a wall 2 ft tall x 6 ft long, calculate (24" / 2¾") for height and (72" / 8¼") for length, rounding up. In this case, you’ll need 81 bricks, 9 rows tall x 9 bricks long. Purchase at least five extra bricks to cut in half to begin new rows, plus an additional one brick per row in case of damaged bricks. If the ground is uneven or sloped, plan to install an additional one or two rows of bricks below the finished grade level to create a level base.
If your wall is more than 2 feet tall, you may need a deeper or wider trench. If the “footer” you install (as described below) is not strong enough to support the wall, the wall can sag or collapse. You can look up recommended dimensions online based on your soil’s load bearing capacity and the size of your project. [2] X Research source Make sure the footer will have good water drainage away from the wall. Water pooling around the footer can cause wall failure.
For this example, with 2-2/3" bricks, you would want 2-2/3" of space between the top of your guide posts and the lip of the trench. This is so the first row of bricks is completely seated in your foundation. Space these posts 2-4 feet apart, depending on the length of your wall.
Use a finishing trowel to make sure the top of the concrete is smooth and level before it starts drying. You can notch a “keyway joint” or “V” into the middle of the footer to help interlock it into the mortar bed.
For the 2x6ft wall, make a mark 2-1/4" up from the bottom – this is the height of the first brick. Make another mark 1/2" above that, then continue this pattern up to the top of the wall, here 2 feet high. You want two of these, one for each side of the wall. These rods will be the rulers for your wall, and need to be identically lined up. Use a level and your tape measure to make sure the wall is immaculately planned.
String and clamps/nails (to create guidelines) Mortar and a mixing bucket Level Brick jointer Club hammer Tape measure Water Dry bristle brush Tarps or plywood to lay at base of wall Small torpedo level to check individual bricks 4 ft level
If you do not have bricklaying experience, read through this entire section first. You may need to practice a few techniques before you begin.
Don’t let the line sag. This must be kept “true” for a solid, level wall without major structural issues. [6] X Research source It’s really important that you ensure everything is symmetrical and perfectly squared for the first 2-3 courses so the rest of your brick wall turns out straight and even. [7] X Expert Source Gerber Ortiz-VegaMasonry Specialist Expert Interview. 10 March 2020.
Scrape any excess mortar down the line. You can use this mortar for the next bricks as long as it is free from contaminants.
This is a very important step that ensures a strong bond between bricks. If you skip this and try to fill the mortar in between laid bricks, the joint will eventually fail. For best results, practice this several times on spare bricks before you move on to the real wall.
You can never check if the wall is level enough. You should be using your level and tape measure with almost every brick.
You need to stagger your bricks, meaning that one brick in the second row sits on two bricks in the row below it. To do this, you’ll start every other new row with half a brick. You don’t need a perfectly clean, smooth cut. The rough edges will help hold the mortar.
Remember to use the guideline and your level together to make sure the bricks are even and at the right height. Your gauging rods should help you place the end bricks, as they will line up right with the marks planted at the end of your wall.
Move the guideline. Apply mortar. Press a brick into either end of the wall, using the guidelines and level to make sure they are at the right height. Do the same thing one row above the one you’re currently working on. Measure, mortar, and build the bottommost row, (infill the courses). Repeat the process one row higher. [12] X Research source
Soldiering, or standing the bricks up so that they are up straight, like soldiers at attention. Headers are when the shortest side of the brick points out. The top row of bricks is spun 90 degrees from the bottom one. [13] X Research source
To help you remember where to place the bricks, think of how the wall looks when you’re facing it. Every other row has a small, “square” brick, followed by the long bricks running parallel to the wall.
