Coop without an outdoor pen: This is the most basic type of chicken coop, consisting only of the physical indoor structure. The chickens will be confined to the indoor space until someone specifically lets them out, so allow at least 5 square feet per chicken. Outdoor chicken run: This is slightly more difficult to build than the simple coop, but it will allow your chickens more space, as well as the option of being outside. Allow 2 to 3 square feet per chicken for the coop, and at least 4 square feet per chicken for the outside run. Winter only coop: This coop is used to keep chickens inside during the winter months. Since it is unlikely that the chickens will be allowed outside during sad months, allow between 7 and 10 square feet per chicken. Note that egg-laying hens will also require a nesting area of at least 1 square foot per 4 hens, as well as a roosting area of 6 to 10 inches (15. 2 to 25. 4 cm) per chicken. Roosts should be at least 2 feet (0. 6 m) off the ground (the elevation will keep your chickens dry during wet weather).
Sunlight encourages egg-laying, so try not to place your coop directly in the shade. Alternatively, you can use warm yellow lights inside the coop to increase egg production (white or blue light will have no effect).
Perching Area. Often just a thick stick or piece of wood hung between the walls in the coop, and elevated perch allows for extra space, as well as a comfortable sleeping area for your chickens. Nesting Area. You can make a nest by stuffing boxes or baskets with straw or sawdust. Without enough nesting space, your chickens will lay eggs on the ground, increasing the likelihood that they will break. Keep in mind that the average chicken will lay an egg every one to two days. The size of your nesting area should reflect both the number of chickens and how often you plan to collect eggs. In general, one nesting area per 4 to 5 hens should be sufficient. Other than the fact that elevated nests will discourage predation, the height of your nests is not as important as the location. Be sure that the nests are placed in a clean, dry place, and that they are separate from the roosting area (or you risk chicken manure on your eggs!). Ventilation. To avoid disease caused by stale air, proper ventilation systems are necessary. If you plan to build a year-round, closed coop, be sure to include little windows covered in chicken wire to allow for proper air flow. Dust Boxes. Chickens often clean themselves with dust bathing. To keep your chickens happy and smell-free, consider adding a couple boxes filled with dirt or sand.
Consider convenience. Remember that you will need to clean out the chicken coop, as well as regularly change the food and water. If you do not want to build a coop that is large enough to stand up in, look for a plan that gives you a few options, such as multiple “access doors. " If you decide to repurpose an old structure, avoid lumber that’s been coated with lead paint or that was used to house harmful chemicals, or you risk damaging the health of both you and your chickens. [2] X Research source
If you are cutting the plywood yourself, use a straight edge and an easy-to-see pen to make lines before you cut. Screw on the frame. To keep the floor sturdy, screw 2x4s around the bottom perimeter. You may also want to screw one across the middle of the floor for extra security. To ensure a tight joint on the corners, use a long pipe clamp.
Plan the front door opening before you cut. The door opening should be 2 to 3 feet (0. 6 to 0. 9 m) wide. Cut the height according to your preferences, but keep in mind that you should leave 6 to 10 inches (15. 2 to 25. 4 cm) between the edges of the door and the top and bottom of the plywood panel. Use a Jigsaw to make the cut. This will give you the easiest, smoothest cut. When you are done, reinforce the top of the door using a piece of scrap wood about 20 inches (50. 8 cm) long and thick enough to attach using plenty of screws and glue.
As with the other side, be sure that the 2x2s stop 4 inches (10. 2 cm) from the bottom of the plywood. This will allow the plywood to hang down over the 2x4s on the underside of the floor.
Reinforce the middle panel by attaching two pieces of scrap wood where the panel joins with the two side panels. Be sure that the scrap wood is as long (vertically) as your middle panel.
Use an angle finder to determine the exact pitch of the roof. If you don’t have an angle finder, you can eyeball the pitch (just make sure it’s the same for both gables!) Notch the gables. In order for the gables to fit correctly, you’ll need to make notches where you reinforced the openings. If the wood you used for the front is exactly the same size as the back, you can make exactly the same cut on both gables. However, if you used scrap wood, you’ll need to make unique cuts for each gable.
It’s okay if there is a little bit of wiggle room between the reinforcement wood and the notches. The important thing is that the gable is sturdy once attached to the wall.
Strengthen your truss by cutting a crosstie from 1⁄4 inch (0. 6 cm) thick plywood. Cut it to the same measurements as your gable, and then screw it to the 2x2s.
Place the roof on top of the coop. Check to see that there is an overhang at both the front and back of the coop. The overhang is necessary for both structural and aesthetic reasons.
Use four 2x4s for the legs. Use beefy screws to attach them to the 2x4s on the bottom corners of the chicken coop.
