Build underneath a deciduous plant like an oak and maple trees. The tree will lose its leaves in the fall so the pond receives full sunlight in the winter, preventing it from freezing.
The flatter the land is, the better it will be for your pond. If it isn’t flat, consider digging out the high points and filling in the low points. Avoid placing the pond near slopes, since water and debris will seep into it.
Most constructed frog ponds are oval or crescent-shaped. Adjust the shape of your pond as needed to fit it in the space you have available, but try to keep a basic shape so the pond liner fits it easily.
Make the pond no more than 3 ft (0. 91 m) deep. This depth is enough for frogs in colder climates to safely hibernate during the winter.
Make a 10% grade or smaller incline. As long as the pond’s slopes gently without any ridges around the perimeter, it will be safe for frogs.
Tamper tools are available at most hardware stores. You may be able to rent one there as well.
Underlays are made of a soft material like polypropylene. They are extra useful if you have rocky soil or have pets and wild animals that may visit the pond. If you have high-clay soil or wetland soil, you may be able to skip using a pond liner and underlay. The pond will fill with water on its own.
If you wish to remove the excess liner and underlay, cut it with scissors or a utility knife. Leave them a little long so they overhang the pond walls. Removing the excess is optional since you can always cover it with rocks and plants. Another option is to get a rigid plastic liner from a home improvement store. This type of liner is like a tub which you set in the ground. You do not need an underlay beneath it. [6] X Research source Alternatively, you can have a concrete pond. It is a pond that does not give you any problems. You can waterproof the pond. You don’t have to worry about the liner getting a hole. It is the ultimate pond structure you can get. But most people don’t have a budget to do a full plumbing system in the concrete, rebar, and structural components that take up or make up the cost of the concrete structure for a pond. So if you have the money, build a concrete pond.
To make the rocks look more natural, choose stones that do not look uniform. Position them all differently instead of laying them horizontally in a ring. Check landscaping companies and nearby home improvement stores for stones. You may be able to find some in the wild, but don’t take them unless you have permission to do so.
Sand and dirt also work but make the pond look dirty. Try mixing some gravel in with play sand or topsoil to create a more effective bottom layer.
Some good plants for the deeper parts of the pond include pennywort, water celery, Mexican starflower, tassel sedge, and marsh flowers. For the shallower parts of the pond, choose plants like sedges, water canna, rush, nardoo, lemon bacopa, and arrowhead.
Frog ponds aren’t usually equipped with a filter. If your pond is large, consider installing a pump and filter system. Pumps can be dangerous to tadpoles, so rely on plants if possible.
Slice away the excess pool liner as needed to fit the plants near the water’s edge. Be careful not to cut the liner down too far. Let it extend past the pond’s edges by at least 2 in (5. 1 cm). Fill in the gaps between plants with gravel, stones, and soil to hide an exposed pool liner.
If you don’t have a good piece of driftwood, try piling dirt to create mounds close to the edges of the pond. The mounds make the pond look more natural while also giving the frogs a little bit of hiding space.
Let the pond fill with rainwater, if possible. Rainwater has less harmful chemicals than tap water and doesn’t need to be treated. Tadpoles hatch in late spring and grow throughout the summer. This is the most important season for maintaining the pond’s water level.
Any time you need to add tap water to the pond, add some of the powder.
