The first thing you have to consider is where will you place your ramp when it is in use. Consider the terrain, if there are any obstructions, and if there are any issues that may arise with your neighbors or the city. Depending on how large you plan to make your ramp, your place of residence may have ordinances on measurements or noise so it’s best to check with anyone you may think will be affected. Consider what happens when your ramp is not in use. For example, will you need to store it and, if so, how will you transport it to and from different locations. If you don’t plan to store it, how much more resources will you have to spend in order to keep it maintained. Most likely you will have it outdoors so you have to consider how weather will affect its use. Moreover, when left outside, will it prevent you and your family from utilizing that space for anything else other than skateboarding. Some common places to use a skate ramp are the driveway, carport, and backyard. Ramps can be stored in the open when properly lifted off the ground, sealed and covered with a tarp. Increase your ramp’s longevity by shielding it from the elements
Don’t be nearsighted. Just because you may only be focused on a single trick now doesn’t mean you won’t want to learn new ones. Try to keep your ramp as versatile as possible; however, start small if this is your first woodworking project. A small mini ramp is good for a limited amount of space and can be built into any shape. A ramp strictly for jumps can be limiting but is great for beginners. A standard ramp conventionally has ten foot transitions, a small staircase and can be used in millions of different ways as you hone your craft. [1] X Research source
Find pro ramp plans online. Don’t buy expensive design software. Look for free blueprints online, consult friends skilled in design, or go to your local hardware store to start you off on the right foot. [2] X Research source Don’t be afraid to be creative with your design; however, be sure not to start building unless you’re truly satisfied with the final design. Repeatedly starting and stopping can bleed your resources and cause unwanted frustration. When you’re customizing, some experimentation may be needed but be careful not to act without intention. For example, if you experiment and hastily cut off several feet rather than an inch at a time, you may need to start the entire project all over again. This can especially be true when building curved ramps. [3] X Research source If you’re on a budget or a beginner, pick a blueprint that matches most of your needs and, after a successful build, consider building a second ramp with customization.
Purchase screws and wood at any hardware store. Ensuring the length and type are best suited for your measurements and plans. Consider renting, borrowing, or using your own power tools to reduce time. For example, a power drill with assorted bits would be helpful but not necessary if you just want to use a regular screwdriver. Likewise, a jigsaw would also reduce time if you are cutting any wood down. If you choose steel plating in conjunction with wood or instead of it, you’ll need to find a local steel fabricator or scrap metal centre in your area. This may be difficult to find in your area, so start your design and customization around what steel is available to you. Stick to a budget especially if this is your first build. A beginner ramp commonly costs approximately $200 to build after all building materials are purchased but this can easily sky rocket if you factor in power tools, customization, or top-of-the-line materials. [5] X Research source
Use pressure treated wood. This material is chemically treated for protection against the growth of mould and is fairly waterproof. Consult the retailer for all possible alternatives. [6] X Research source Pressure treated wood comes in two colors: a copper green-ish tinge and a natural tone. The only difference is the preservative so choose whatever looks best to you. [7] X Research source
If you’re unsure, do a faux set-up by drawing it out because it’s better to make the mistake on paper rather than ruin your project and start over. Don’t be afraid to ask someone for help. Don’t be embarrassed about mistakes. You might need to pick up extra pieces of wood, but don’t give up because woodworking is a skill that needs to be developed over time.
Wear goggles to deflect wood chunks and protect your eyes from sawdust. [9] X Research source Wear clothes that fit because loose clothes can easily be caught by tools. [10] X Research source
Protect your ramp from rain and the elements by giving it a smooth finish with sealant.
Use a pencil to draw out the lines and a jigsaw to cut along these lines if you haven’t had your wood cut at the hardware store.
Attach the sides of the ramp to a front anchor. It’s vital to make sure, at this point in time, that the frame is level because if it’s not level now, it won’t be after completion.
You can also double up on the 2x6 boards approximately four inches from the top of the ramp for additional support for the ramp. You can also attach a support (two longer 2x4) underneath the 2x6’s because, while it’s unlikely they will break, the added support will truly strengthen the structure. [15] X Research source
Put screws in every foot starting at the top to ensure a smooth transition between panels.
If possible, don’t put the seam of the masonite or skatelite directly atop the seam of the two plywood boards in order to add strength to the ramp.
Skatelite is the most costly surface as it is used by professionals and is weather resistant. Masonite is a smooth tempered hardboard that is reasonably priced but is not resistant to the sun and rain so it must be protected. Plywood is not weather resistant and is unforgiving when you fall but is the most cost effective choice for your surface.
For a smooth finish, sand down the bare wood using 120 sandpaper. Follow that up with 150 grit. Then work your way up to 180 grit. Grade A is the highest grade of plywood with no knots, splits, or cracks. Grade B is solid with minimal knots and splits. It usually is sanded smooth but may need you to give it another sanding. Grade C has knots up to 1 ½” in diameter as well as cracks and splits that affect the wood’s integrity. Grade D will have many splits and cracks. Knots can be as large as 3” and the surface will need to be sanded. Grade D is the lowest grade but the most cost effective. Finnish Birch is high quality plywood but is expensive and may be difficult to find.
Skatelite is resistant from the sun and rain but laying tar paper underneath it will protect the plywood base from any water that gets in through any cracks. [22] X Research source If you’re using masonite or plywood, protect your surface from the rain with water resistant paint. Use Spar Urethane or Polyurethane Paint. Spar Urethane is the most heavy duty but also the most costly. Polyurethane does not protect as well as Spar Urethane but comes in a variety of colours. [23] X Research source
