a. 2in cap (not shown) b. 2in pipe screen with drilled holes (about 9in long) c. 2in coupler d. 2x3/4 reducer e. 2x3/4 reducer with the lip filed out to allow the 3/4in pipe to slide all the way through. f. 2in coupler (not shown in assembled image) g. 3/4in pipe (about 4 in long) h. 3/4in slip-male thread adapter i. 3/4in brass check valve j. 2in pipe about 36in long (not shown). It fits into coupler (f).
a. 3/4in threaded pipe extender. Screws into bottom of check valve (d). b. Spacers. The purpose of the spacers is to keep the gasket rigid. They should not contact the cylinder. You can use a 2in hole saw to score a ring in each side, then use a 1-1/8in Forstner bit to bore out the inner hole. The hole saw can be again used to finish the outer cut. These can be made from wood or plastic. c. Leather gasket. Can also be made from rubber. Carefully cut this to fit snugly in the cylinder and on the pipe extender. When inserting the assembly in the cylinder to test the fit, first soften the leather with water. Otherwise, you will trim it too small and need to start over. d. 3/4in brass check valvee. 3/4in slip-male thread adapter f. 3/4in pipe 6in long with drilled holes. This allows water to enter the upper cylinder after passing through the check valve. g. 3/4x1/2in slip reducer h. Rubber stopper. Held in place by the 1/2in pipe (i). Prevents water coming up the pipe (i). i. 1/2in pipe
Before measuring the static water depth and well depth, first remove the well cap. This will reveal a secondary cap and the electrical connections. This cap is cemented to a pipe which connects to the pitless adapter (the device that holds the pump in place and connects the water from the pump to the line leading to the house below the frost level). You do not need to remove this cap or lift the pump at this time, as you only need to measure the static water depth. To measure the static water depth, tie a weight to some string or light rope. It is difficult to hear or see when the weight enters the water. Therefore, lower the weight down a few feet and bring it back up, feeling for water on the rope. Continue lowering the rope a couple feet further each time, until the rope comes up wet. Each time, mark the rope at the top of the well before pulling the rope out. Measure the distance from the weight to highest mark on the rope. This is the static water depth. Measuring the total depth of the well is more of a challenge because it is difficult to know when you hit bottom (or the top of the pump). Using fishing line may be helpful. Nevertheless, the static water depth is the important measurement. This indicates how much pipe (both the 1-1/4in outer pipe and the 1/2in inner pipe) is needed. To cover the 15 feet (4. 6 m), and have the cylinder well below the static water level, use 20 feet (6. 1 m) of pipe. The pipe will be connected with threaded couplers to aid in assembly and disassembly without cement. One additional detail to mention here is to drill a small hole in the side of the 1-1/4in pipe a few feet below the ground level. This will slowly drain water from the top of the pipe back into the well and thus prevent freeze damage.
a. 1-1/4x1/2in reducer. Ream out the bore with a 7/8in Forstner bit to allow the 1/2in pipe to slide freely. b. 1-1/4x3/4in threaded T coupler. c. 3/4in slip-male thread adapter d. 3/4in pipe e. 3/4in 45° elbow f. 3/4in pipe g. 3/4x1/2in slip-male thread reducer (optional) h. Brass female pipe, male hose adapter (optional)
You might also add to your to-do list an alternative well cap that will accept the pump head assembly.
You may not want the water coming out of the handle. You might plan to use a lever handle (which pulls the water up when you push down on the handle). The force of pushing down on the 1/2in pipe to do the work may lead to buckling issues. The water in the pipe must still be pulled up to the surface with the alternative design. The alternative assumes the cylinder above the plunger is dry. There is a good chance the gasket will not form a perfect seal and leak water into the chamber anyway. It is not as easy to drain water from the internal pipe to prevent freeze damage.
