You should start with: 1 – 2×4 2 – Cedar Pickets These boards are great, simple projects that work equally well will plywood, cedar, or nice sheets of maple or walnut. When possible, use a table saw for clean, well-cut lines.
The wood should be 1/2-1" thick. This piece forms the u-shaped frame of your shelf.
To get a perfect diagonal joint, cut one end of each short piece and both ends of the long piece at 45-degree angles so that all three pieces can fit together to form 90-degree angles in the corners. Leave the front strip as is and cut an inch off of both shorter pieces, enabling you to tuck them behind the longer one once placed between the panels. Always err on the side of “too long” when cutting. You can always cut off a little more, but you can’t add it back. [1] X Research source
If using wood glue, you’ll need to use clamps to ensure that the board stays in place as it dries. For thicker wood, or for a sturdier build, skip the nail gun and use a power drill.
This is why the shelf “floats. " The hollow part of the shelf hangs on a hidden u-shaped mount attached to the wall.
This should be at least 3/4” thick. Some builders prefer to make this mount first. Then you can build the shelf around the mount, using it as a guide for measurements. Neither way is better, just personal opinion.
For peace of mind, create a third or fourth support strip, identical to the two on the outside. You then end up with an E-shaped bracket that can hold much more weight.
The wall mount will be hidden, so there is no need to polish or finish it.
