How To Buy A Used Car From A Private Party With Pictures

Apply for financing through a bank if you cannot pay the total cost of the car upfront. If you do not have enough saved you should consider a personal loan from a bank. The total cost of this can vary considerably depending on your credit score. Apply for this financing before you approach a seller. Look up the laws in your state regarding private sales. In nearly every state, caveat emptor (“Buyer Beware”) applies. Basically, this means that once the money changes hands, you have no legal recourse or warranty if things go bad, even the day after you buy the car. You’d have to get any warranty in writing, preferably on the bill of sale. [5] X Research source

Note that terms like “clean,” and “runs great” are not legally enforceable terms, nor particularly helpful for a buyer. Focus on miles, any recent mechanical work needed, make, model, and year of the car.

If you want to negotiate the price of the car, know what price you’re looking for now. It might not come up yet, and likely shouldn’t, but you should have this idea from your budget earlier. Only contact sellers if you’re interested in actually buying the car. Showing and testing a used car takes time, and the seller doesn’t want to hold on other offers if you’re not serious.

If the seller is unable or unwilling to give any of this information, go ahead and walk away. This is a huge red flag.

Only meet the seller if you can also see the car. If they just want to meet in person, they’re wasting your time.

Ask if they have made any modifications (“mods”) to the car, and who did them. Ask, at the very least, for the mechanical history of the car since the current owner bought it. If they made repairs or changes themselves, it is up to you whether or not you trust them.

The most likely location of the VIN is on the lower left-hand corner of the windshield (looking from the driver’s seat).

Note, however, that Kelly Blue Book prices will vary from zip code to zip code, so check prices in your own town, not where you buy the car.

A new set of tires can be a potential red flag – as this is an odd expense to pay before selling the car. Make sure you pay specific attention to braking and handling when test driving.

If the oil is red or green it is probably brand new. Again, if the seller is not upfront about this it can be a red flag that she/he is hiding bigger issues.

For a manual transmission, check the clutch master cylinder for leaks, etc. ; and the clutch pedal; it shouldn’t feel either too stiff or too loose. Does the shifter hang up or pop out of gear? Those would be considered deal enders.

Keep the stereo off so that you can listen into the car for dangerous sounds or unwelcome noises. You can test the sound system, but make it quick. Try to drive, if possible, at a variety of speeds and locations. Get on a nearby highway and open it up, then try to slower, more precise turning on slower roads.

If the seller doesn’t have the title in hand, walk away. Don’t accept stories about it being lost or gone. Similarly, make sure you have your cash and any required paperwork ready.

Consider the incentives of the seller. The seller often is motivated to sell the car privately because of a poor offer from a dealership. The seller is generally aware of the market value of the car and generally willing to sell below that value. You can use this to your advantage in negotiating the price. [10] X Research source www. jstor. org/stable/27805041?seq=1#page_scan_tab_contents